Negative

To effectively implement  mechanical weeding:

• Step 1: Farmers should be able to identify weeds resistance to herbicides.
• Step 2: Examine fields to understand level of weed infestation – can they be easily and effectively removed using a hoe, without spreading seeds, or will manual weeding be necessary.
• Step 3: Attempt to quantify the amount of labour needed. Can the work be completed by the adults on the farm, or will additional labour be required? Will youths be involved in weeding? Will they miss school?
• Step 4: Begin removal of weeds, ensuring that weeds are uprooted and removed from the field to avoid regeneration. A hoe must have a long handle to be able to work effectively and the hoe blade must not be too sharp in order to cut weeds without going through crops and spreading seed and cuttings.
• Step 5: Weeding should take place a minimum of three times over the growing season – one week before planting crops, three weeks after planting (when the crop has two to three leaves), and two months after planting (milk-stage ). The aim is to reduce or eliminate the product of seeds in the weed plants.
• Step 6: Draft animal-drawn cultivators can reduce labour requirements but should only be used to cultivate soil to a shallow depth, retaining soil structure, but not disturbing soil. Weeds should be collected by hand afterwards. Deeper tilling or turning of the soil with the wrong implement may cause more harm than good.
• Step 7: Weeding must be sustained year on year to reduce prevalence. It is important to caution farmers that results may not be seen in significant reduction of plants until year-two of a weeding programme.
• Step 8: Obnoxious weeds – such as Striga, etc – should be burned once pulled, preferably away from the field, in order to eradicate their presence.

To effectively implement hedge planting:

• Step 1: Purchase saplings of selected tree species from a local nursery or grow saplings in separate on-farm nursery. If growing on-farm, saplings should be held-up with an upright support bamboo/wooden pole. Ideally, the farmer should begin exploring silvopasture tree species beginning with indigenous trees, such as acacias, and other local trees. It is worth considering a mixture of species, as well as mixed shallower and deeper rooted trees.
• Step 2: Once at a meter or over in height, transplant to pastures, surrounding each individual sapling with a wire mesh cage-tube or insert into five-centimetre diameter PVC pipe to protect from browsers. Plant at least ten to twenty meters apart, in either a random or uniform pattern. This is a matter of preference.
• Step 3: Once saplings are planted, only allow grazing livestock (cows, sheep, ducks, geese, chickens) in the silvopasture, avoiding browsers (goats, etc), which will strip, damage or destroy the saplings.
• Step 4: Once mature and above browsing height, two plus meters, remove protective cage or pipe.
• Step 5: Depending on species, pruning, coppicing etc should be performed every two months to ensure that trees remain healthy and productive, while maximising outputs for in-field and cut and carry fodder.

To effectively implement Zai Pits the following should be carried out:

• Step 1: Zai pits should be dug with a diameter of 30 cm to 40 cm and 10 cm to 15 cm deep. 
• Step 2: Pits should be spaced 70 cm to 80 cm apart resulting in approximately 10,000 pits per hectare.
• Step 3: The farmer should place 2 – 3 handfuls (200 g to 600 g) of organic fertilisers or compost in each pit.
• Step 4: Holes that are dug between planting seasons will trap wind eroded soils, which are fertile and form good soils for plating crops.
• Step 5: It is recommended that 3 tonnes of fertiliser/compost per hectare be available.
• Step 6: Farmers should consider planting crops in these pits prior to periods of rain.
• Step 7: Repeated application of Zai pit technology on an annual basis will increase productivity of degraded land in the long term.

To effectively approach to terracing construction:

• Step 1: Measure slope angle – should not exceed 25 degrees and soils should be at least 0.5 metres deep.
• Step 2: Plot the contours – see Technical Brief 16 Contour Planting for instructions for staking-out contours, and the diagram below for use of a t-stick to measure the distance between contours.
• Step 3: Start at the lowest terrace. Dig a trench vertically below the next contour, and then dig outwards to the lowest contour. Remove soil and place downhill below the lowest contour.
• Step 4: Compact soil on constructed terrace.
• Step 5: Work should then progress upslope, emptying top-soil on to the terrace below to provide soil for planting.
• Step 6: Strengthen riser buttress walls (back-walls) with stones, compacted soil, or by planting grass or trees.
• Step 7: Terrace-end drainage should also be considered, so water does not pool too heavily. The down-field gutters can be lined with stones to reduce erosion

Detailed diagrams and tables for calculating terrace dimensions are provided in Peace Corps 1986, Soil conservation techniques for hillside farming.

Additional guidance can be sought from videos provided by Access Agriculture: SLM02 Fanya Juu terraces. The Kenyan example provided is also up-slope terrace construction but using a different method where a trench is dug, and the loose topsoil is thrown up-hill (fanya juu in Kiswahili) which forms a ridge that flattens over time.

To effectively undertake contour planting:

• Step 1: Construct an A-frame that has a plumb-line with a rock hanging down the centre. The base of the A-frame should be 90 cm.
• Step 2: Calibrate the A-frame on flat ground. Ensure that both legs are on the ground. Mark where the plumb line meets the cross bar.
• Step 3: On a slope, working perpendicular to the slope, plant one leg of the A-frame and swing the other leg around until the plumb line meets the mark on the cross bar. Drive a stake into the ground where the first ‘planted’ leg is and continue the process across the slope.
• Step 4: Once the extent of the contour has been staked, tie a string from post-to-post across the slope; this identifies the contour to be planted.
• Step 5: Plant selected crops, develop contour ridges or plant contour strips along the contour line.
• Step 6: Subsequent contours should be spaced 3-5 m up or downhill of the preceding contour line. To determine the length between contour lines, measure off the top of each stake to a stake up or downhill with a tape measure or accurately measured third stick.
• Step 7: Contour ridges can be implemented like Water Spreading Bunds (Technical Brief 28) to form ridges of soil that are formed by tilling or ploughing and can be left after land preparation to further prevent erosive forces. Crops can be planted between these ridges.
• Step 8: The planting of contour strips can be implemented by planting grasses or hedges 20 m (shallow slopes) to 10 m (steeper slopes) apart up or downhill, similar to Trash Lines (Technical Brief 14). This intercropping allows for erosion control and can be used as fodder for livestock.

Without a topographic survey, this technology may require trial and error to begin with, to see how rainfall and run-off responds to the contouring. To effectively implement erosion control measures the following should be carried out:

• Step 1: Perform a thorough local study of the landscape, soils, land use and erosive processes that most impact the area: steep slopes, flood plains, high winds etc.
• Step 2: Source a large number of stones, preferably five to ten centimetres square blocks (from a quarry) or five to ten-centimetre diameter cobbles (from a river-bed). You will need 30 to 50 tonnes of stone per hectare for contour bunds approximately 300 metres long.
• Step 3: Mark out contours, as discussed in Technical Brief 16 Contour Planting.
• Step 4: In larger fields with shallower slopes, place stones in rows of two along contour line, interlocking alternately, burying the lower half. The bunds can be between 25 and 40 metres apart. On steeper slopes, stack and bury stones against or in vertical/near vertical walls of contours much closer together (five to ten metres apart) to reinforce them.
• Step 5: Make sure that stone bunds follow the contours from one side of the field to the other, ensuring that no ‘pour’ points (larger gaps) exist along the way, lining the drainage channel or weir from one contour to the next with stones to avoid or reduce scouring in these locations.
• Step 6: Following, and if possible, during rainfall events, check the stability of the slope, adjusting stone bunds where necessary.
• Step 7: At the end of the rainy season and again following harvest, review the performance of the technology, and prepare for the next growing season.

In addition to agricultural inputs and the following technical implementation steps, ISFM requires the farmer to consider farm size (land area), and property rights (land tenure) to ensure that investments are efficient and sustainable.

To implement ISFM approaches, the following should be considered:

• Step 1: Prepare a needs assessment based on understanding of farm challenges – low or declining productivity, soil fertility, low organic content, etc
• Step 2: Measure fields that require attention to understand volumes of inputs required.
• Step 3: Develop (or update) an agricultural calendar to use as a platform for discussion between farmer(s) extension officer(s).
• Step 4: Develop plan and schedule/programme of locally appropriate ISFM interventions between farmer(s) and extension officer(s), obtaining guidance from agricultural suppliers where necessary (lime application, etc). As ISFM is a blended approach, the plan should consider short and medium to long term interventions and outcomes.
• Step 5: Examine cost implications of the plan, revising where necessary based upon available resources, and if necessary/available apply for credit to fund investments.
• Step 6: Assess labour requirements within the ISFM plan to ensure that they can be fulfilled, and considerations of gender and youth have been accommodated – women are not expected to do the majority of work, and children are not missing school.

Organic fertilisers can be produced at the household level or purchased. On-farm production includes stock-piling animal manure, crop residues, and other organic waste, following appropriate guidance for processing and usage.

To apply organic fertilisers the following should be considered:

• Step 1: Assess field area where fertiliser is to be applied, and fertiliser needs – poor crop performance, low organic matter content, etc.
• Step 2: Ensure that fertiliser is available in sufficient quantities for application in all target or priority fields.
• Step 3: Ensure organic fertiliser – especially green manure/crop residues – are broken-down/chopped to aid breakdown/integration with soil.
• Step 4: Monitor soil nutrient levels and crop performance (in the light of prevailing climatic conditions) to determine success of organic fertilisers.

To effectively undertake composting:

• Step 1: gather compostable materials - rests of harvests, animal manure and dung, organic kitchen waste (fruit and vegetable waste), other food waste, edible oils and fats, wood shavings, paper products (not printed), hair cut waste. Avoid non-compostable materials such as chemical residues, glass, metals, plastics, carcasses, cooked leftovers or meat.
• Step 2: Chop/cut materials to achieve optimum particle size is between 5 – 20 cm – this will assist decomposition. Wire mesh can be used to sift smaller non-organic particles.
• Step 3: Add water regularly using a watering-can to assist decomposition, ensuring that the materials do not become water logged.
• Step 4: Using a pitchfork or shovel, turn-over or rotate compost materials regularly as oxygen is a key component to the decomposition process.
• Step 5: If available, add earthworms (known as vermiculture) to compostable material, which enriches soil, enhances plant growth (hence yields) and suppresses disease.
• Step 6: Once compost material has been decomposed (three months to two years, depending on climate and composting material) it will be a fine, dark material. Screen the material to remove large particles and mix with soils in gardens or fields prior planting and around plants throughout growing period.
• Step 7: If compost does not include animal manure/waste it can be applied to crops as an organic fertiliser at any point up to harvest. If it does include animal waste, it can be incorporated into soil not less than 120 days prior to harvest, especially where edible portion of crops has been in contact with the soil surface.

Additional notes:

• For Open Composting System (Piles): select a level area or dig a pit with a level bottom away from developed areas, chop collected materials into piles, turn over or rotate and add water to material regularly (weekly or bi-monthly). Cover pile if there is heavy rain to prevent materials from washing away and becoming water-logged.
• For Contained Composting Systems: construct a container unit from mesh, wooden panels, bricks and other suitable building materials, fill the container with chopped material, turn over or rotate, and add water to material regularly (weekly or bi-monthly). Keep compostable material covered.