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To effectively leverage flooding irrigation:

• Step 1: prepare the field, digging parallel furrows and raising beds with the excess soil. Crops are planted in beds, and the irrigation water will flow in the furrows.
• Step 2: Using a pump or gravity fed water storage, allow water to flow into the field, flooding furrows.
• Step 3: Insert a fine mesh or introduce a hessian sack at the in-flow point to trap weeds and pests.
• Step 4: Water release should be moderated so as not to flow too fast and erode beds, and too slow such that it remains trapped at the in-flow point.
• Step 5: Water release can be more effective if released in surges, taking advantage of infiltration rates and capillary action in soil.
• Step 6: Observe progress. Avoid leaving soil crusts, which will make water rush over.

A sustainable water source must be identified and a pumping/irrigation system should be used.

To effectively Water Spreading Bunds the following should be carried out:

• Step 1: Farmers should consider making earth bunds by hand, animal ploughs or mechanised ploughs.
• Step 2: Contour bunds:
  • Contour lines must be plotted and marked prior to developing the bund.
  • A 40 cm deep infiltration pit is dug directly above where the bund will be plotted.
  • Bunds should be spread 5 m to 10 m apart.
  • Material from the infiltration pit will be piled and compacted to form a 25 cm to 30 cm in height with a base of 75 cm.
  • Soil is piled to form a ridge along the contour. The more significant the slope, the closer the bunds must be plotted.
• Step 3: Semi-circle bunds:
  • Contour lines must be plotted and marked prior to developing the bund.
  • A centre point is chosen as diameter for the bund is selected (this could be 3 m or 30 m depending on the available space). From the centre point a string is used to stake out an even semi-circle.
  • Excavate a small trench before the bund and pile the excavated material. Pile and compact a bund wall, wetting it often to form the wall.
• Step 4: Contour stone bunds:
  • Developed on less steep slopes.
  • Must have access to local stones.
  • Dig out a shallow ditch, 10 cm to 15 cm in depth.
  • Lay largest stones at the bottom of the ditch and pile smaller stone upward.
  • Step 5: Regular monitoring of bunds should take place, especially after rain events or after significant periods of time. Repairs should be done if any damage is found.

While agroforestry practices are deemed highly beneficial and climate smart, it is important to ensure that proposed practices are appropriate for the specific context – the benefits of the agroforestry practice match the needs of the farmer - and are fit for purpose. Obtain advice from an agroforestry expert before embarking on secondary crop/hedge species selection.

To effectively implement alley-cropping the following should be carried out:

• Step 1: Clearly understand the objectives of the intervention and identify an appropriate species for intercropping. For maize and sorghum in a smaller subsistence farm setting, selection and growth of hedge rows of a legumes such as cowpea or Gliricidia can provide sustainable benefits in terms of soil quality and secondary fodder/food products. In larger fields, timber trees can be planted every five to ten crop rows, depending on the height of the mature tree, and the shade-tolerance of the crop.
• Step 2: Identify and understand key conditions, such as prevailing wind direction, and sunlight to ensure that the field is planted in an appropriate configuration, with primary crop and secondary (hedge/shrub/tree) crops planted in such a way as to benefit the primary crop and not compete with it. East to west row orientation should maxmise sunlight, topography permitting.
• Step 3: For beneficial hedgerow growth with legume species such as Leucaena, cliricidia, and Sesbania sesban, the trees should be planted in rows between two and four metres apart, with individual trees planted as close as possible - between 10 to 15 cm apart. If planted closely, the trees will favour leaves over step growth, creating more mulch to prune for cover. Note that if rows are planted too closely, the secondary crop can dominate the available crop land reducing productivity. Furthermore, the closer the hedges, the more shade will present, which can depress crop growth, and also start to compete for soil water and nutrients, which is not beneficial.
• Step 4: Once reaching sufficient maturity, after approximately six months (one-metre tall for legumes)– hedges should be pruned to generate mulch for working into the soil. Then the primary crop (maize) can be planted. Pruning once per month thereafter provides cover and ensures that light penetration is maintained. Planting legumes approximately six months before planting the primary crop can ensure that sufficient pruned material is available to incorporate into the soil to enhance growth.
• Step 5: After harvesting the primary crop, hedgerows can be left to grow taller so that shade reduces weed grown, and to develop material to prune and incorporate into the soil again during the following crop cycle. However, hedges should not be allow to grow too high or dense as their roots will dominate the soil and out-compete primary crops for water and nutrients.

Before implementing any of these technologies, further research may be required beyond the guidance provided here. The World Agroforestry Centre (ICRAF) has many resources, toolkits and success stories that can support such research.

To effectively undertake contour planting:

• Step 1: Construct an A-frame that has a plumb-line with a rock hanging down the centre. The base of the A-frame should be 90 cm.
• Step 2: Calibrate the A-frame on flat ground. Ensure that both legs are on the ground. Mark where the plumb line meets the cross bar.
• Step 3: On a slope, working perpendicular to the slope, plant one leg of the A-frame and swing the other leg around until the plumb line meets the mark on the cross bar. Drive a stake into the ground where the first ‘planted’ leg is and continue the process across the slope.
• Step 4: Once the extent of the contour has been staked, tie a string from post-to-post across the slope; this identifies the contour to be planted.
• Step 5: Plant selected crops, develop contour ridges or plant contour strips along the contour line.
• Step 6: Subsequent contours should be spaced 3-5 m up or downhill of the preceding contour line. To determine the length between contour lines, measure off the top of each stake to a stake up or downhill with a tape measure or accurately measured third stick.
• Step 7: Contour ridges can be implemented like Water Spreading Bunds (Technical Brief 28) to form ridges of soil that are formed by tilling or ploughing and can be left after land preparation to further prevent erosive forces. Crops can be planted between these ridges.
• Step 8: The planting of contour strips can be implemented by planting grasses or hedges 20 m (shallow slopes) to 10 m (steeper slopes) apart up or downhill, similar to Trash Lines (Technical Brief 14). This intercropping allows for erosion control and can be used as fodder for livestock.

To effectively undertake trash lines:

• Step 1: Collect straw, stalks, picked weed or other organic materials from field or surrounding area.
• Step 2: Establish contour lines using method identified in contour planting (Technical Brief 16).
• Step 3: Contour lines for trash lines should be spaced between 5 to 10 m apart.
• Step 4: Heap straw along contour lines on hilly or sloped fields to be approximately 0.5 m wide and up to 0.3 m in height.
• Step 5: Trash should be piled on annually or as the field is prepared. Lines can be maintained for a few years and then decomposed materials can be mixed into the soil.

Without a topographic survey, this technology may require trial and error to begin with, to see how rainfall and run-off responds to the contouring. To effectively implement erosion control measures the following should be carried out:

• Step 1: Perform a thorough local study of the landscape, soils, land use and erosive processes that most impact the area: steep slopes, flood plains, high winds etc.
• Step 2: Source a large number of stones, preferably five to ten centimetres square blocks (from a quarry) or five to ten-centimetre diameter cobbles (from a river-bed). You will need 30 to 50 tonnes of stone per hectare for contour bunds approximately 300 metres long.
• Step 3: Mark out contours, as discussed in Technical Brief 16 Contour Planting.
• Step 4: In larger fields with shallower slopes, place stones in rows of two along contour line, interlocking alternately, burying the lower half. The bunds can be between 25 and 40 metres apart. On steeper slopes, stack and bury stones against or in vertical/near vertical walls of contours much closer together (five to ten metres apart) to reinforce them.
• Step 5: Make sure that stone bunds follow the contours from one side of the field to the other, ensuring that no ‘pour’ points (larger gaps) exist along the way, lining the drainage channel or weir from one contour to the next with stones to avoid or reduce scouring in these locations.
• Step 6: Following, and if possible, during rainfall events, check the stability of the slope, adjusting stone bunds where necessary.
• Step 7: At the end of the rainy season and again following harvest, review the performance of the technology, and prepare for the next growing season.

To effectively apply a green manure approach, the following should be considered:

• Step 1: Select legumes that grow well under local conditions and in local soils. Green manure crops should be resilient and require few crop management practices. A thorough investigation should be made to ensure that green manure crops are appropriate for the local conditions in terms of rainfall, climate, soil pH and texture, and salt tolerance.
• Step 2: Identify the appropriate time for planting the green manure crop to ensure growth, but not impacting the primary crop. Especially if the secondary crop is a climber/creeper. Main crop may need to be mature before planting the manure crop, as if a creeper, it may outcompete or constraint growth of maize or sorghum plants.
• Step 3: If seeking to enrich soil properties, the farmer must allow crop residue to remain in the soil longer. This is particularly relevant with multiple uses – e.g. soil amendments and livestock fodder. In these cases, pods can be harvested for fodder, and the remaining plant residue left in the field to cover the soil.
• Step 4: Crop planting should be alley cropped between the primary crop rows, allowing management of the primary and secondary crops, also reducing the competition between the primary and the secondary crop. If the secondary crop also has pest management properties, it may be beneficial to consider boundary planting.
• Step 5: When harvesting the secondary crop, the farmer should consider leaving the residue in the ground. If it is uprooted, it should left on the soil surface. A common mistake is to remove it from the field and accumulate it in one location, missing the benefits of cover-crops, and exposing the residue to decay.

Unless local examples are available, small test plots should be used to test different cover crops to determine which is the most appropriate, and if necessary, demonstrate value to farmers and communities. As the secondary (green manure) crop is not a direct cash-crop, you may need to ensure expectations are measured. It may take several years to develop enough green manure crop to contribute to crop production; hence, crop production has to fit around existing cash/subsistence crops. Furthermore, benefits may not be realised within a single planting season., e.g. Nitrogen may only be available in the soil in the subsequent season.

To effectively undertake composting:

• Step 1: gather compostable materials - rests of harvests, animal manure and dung, organic kitchen waste (fruit and vegetable waste), other food waste, edible oils and fats, wood shavings, paper products (not printed), hair cut waste. Avoid non-compostable materials such as chemical residues, glass, metals, plastics, carcasses, cooked leftovers or meat.
• Step 2: Chop/cut materials to achieve optimum particle size is between 5 – 20 cm – this will assist decomposition. Wire mesh can be used to sift smaller non-organic particles.
• Step 3: Add water regularly using a watering-can to assist decomposition, ensuring that the materials do not become water logged.
• Step 4: Using a pitchfork or shovel, turn-over or rotate compost materials regularly as oxygen is a key component to the decomposition process.
• Step 5: If available, add earthworms (known as vermiculture) to compostable material, which enriches soil, enhances plant growth (hence yields) and suppresses disease.
• Step 6: Once compost material has been decomposed (three months to two years, depending on climate and composting material) it will be a fine, dark material. Screen the material to remove large particles and mix with soils in gardens or fields prior planting and around plants throughout growing period.
• Step 7: If compost does not include animal manure/waste it can be applied to crops as an organic fertiliser at any point up to harvest. If it does include animal waste, it can be incorporated into soil not less than 120 days prior to harvest, especially where edible portion of crops has been in contact with the soil surface.

Additional notes:

• For Open Composting System (Piles): select a level area or dig a pit with a level bottom away from developed areas, chop collected materials into piles, turn over or rotate and add water to material regularly (weekly or bi-monthly). Cover pile if there is heavy rain to prevent materials from washing away and becoming water-logged.
• For Contained Composting Systems: construct a container unit from mesh, wooden panels, bricks and other suitable building materials, fill the container with chopped material, turn over or rotate, and add water to material regularly (weekly or bi-monthly). Keep compostable material covered.